Report from Paris

We chose to live in an unglamorous quartier on the border between Paris’ 9th and 10th arrondisements for a few weeks because it forms the nucleus of the next Martin mystery.  I had decided months ago that Clarie, who will be the novel’s main protagonist, would be teaching at the Lycee Lamartine, which is on the rue du Faubourg Poissoniere, only four blocks from where we are staying, and that the Martin living quarters would be within walking distance. I had located the school, the little park, the Bourse du Travail (or Labor Exchange) where her husband will be working, but I had to see these places and walk the walks and find her an apartment to live in.  And I have to re-imagine (and research) what they would look like in 1897.

If I had my wish, I would only choose places that are easy to pronounce. But in Paris that is not always possible.  So in choosing the Martins’ apartment, I strove to avoid confusion. This is not always easy either. After all, the Lycee Lamartine is not on the rue Lamartine; one scene must take place on the Boulevard Montmartre, which is not the same as the rue du Faubourg Montmartre, and certainly quite distinct (and some distance) from the really famous Montmartre, the hill itself, topped by the Sacre Coeur church.  Within a day (despite almost constant rain) I found her street, rue Rodier, good for many reasons which will emerge if you, dear reader, have the patience to wait for the novel. I’ve also been able to enter her school, which has changed a great deal. (I’m hoping to be called back to peruse old photos.)  Although the principal was very young and very stern, I did encounter some friendly teachers in the courtyard. One even advised me, with a big grin, that he took care of the archives downstairs, and if I wanted to descend with him, the many little creatures that I’d meet would provide me with elements for a “Romanesque” novel. Knowing that Romanesque is our equivalent for Gothic, I laughed and hastily declined the offer!

The quartier today is hustling and bustling, and the farther north you go (at the big intersection a block away from the apartment) it becomes increasingly African. Two independent middle-aged women we have met (one is our delightful artist landlady) have testified that they liked living here—perhaps a little defensively, describing it as central and pratique, which, they didn’t say, but I assumed, meant as opposed to charmant. The Latin Quarter, the oldest sections of the city (the islands, the Marais) and the elegant West End of town—that’s where the charm is. Or just up the hill from us at Montmartre, with its combination of tourism and gentrification. When my Clarie lived here, it would have been just as bustling and dense (without, of course, the dangers of all those motor bikes zooming at you). Like all of Paris, there would have been shops everywhere. (How do they survive now?), but the vehicles, the products, the people, the buildings  have changed. (A friend once told me that Paris is always being built, this nowhere more true than in the streets that surround us.)

The major hallmark of our neighborhood now is the formal wear shops radiating out from the main intersection.  Shop after shop of wedding dresses and evening gowns and men’s suits and materials at cheap prices and poor quality. These shops, as much as anything, mark our quarter as “popular” as the French used to say, meaning petit bourgeois and working class. Now they would probably also describe it as “multicultural.” We are, as the French say, tres contents, here, in a quarter so pratique that it must be as real as the suburbs I wrote about last time.

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Report from Paris

  1. Barbara B Rose says:

    I enjoyed “Cezanne’s Quarry.” I like to paint and am especially interested in the lives of painters. It is a well written picture of France in the late 1800. I enjoyed looking up the paintings relevant to the story. From your blog I was pleased to note that Martin and Clarie get married.

    Clever title.

    • Hi Barbara B. Rose,

      Thanks for the comment. And thanks for reading Cezanne’s Quarry, which I just found out this morning is going to Audible. Indeed, Clarie and Martin do marry. The second chapter (Blood of Lorraine) focuses on the rise of anti-Semitism, and is the saddest book of the series. I am now finishing The Missing Italian Girl–and Clarie will share the spotlight with another woman–it’s my “woman’s book” of the series.
      Cheers. bcp

  2. Natasha Beck says:

    Reading historical mysteries means I can learn something new and be entertained. I liked the socio-political context,and thought both Clarie and Martin were fascinating,multi-dimensional characters with good political consciousness. Just started Blood of Lorraine
    .

  3. Hi Natasha,

    And I follow you on Facebook. Thanks for reading! Hope you like Blood. I just finished The Missing Italian Girl, which will be my “women’s book” of the series. Nice to hear from you!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *